"Out there, among the galaxies, perhaps lies the answer to what a man is". Now, I do not know if the quote from the Norwegian writer Jostein Garder correspond to truth, what is certain is that I, in the galaxy of restaurants that I often explore, have found the answer to what a chef is.
Let us delve into the materanian constellationa true 'autonomous region' in which we have witnessed in just a few years an big-bang of noteworthy restaurant activities. Here is one restaurant, in particular, that deserves the esteem of us space gastronauts. There is a chef who, going against the times, lets his dishes do the talking and not his social media posts. Pure 100%, uncontaminated, simple in his character but damn good at his dishes. His determination and elegance, in the kitchen and in life, have made him more unique than rare.
Hello chef, welcome to Typigo. Introduce yourself to our readers.
Nicola Popolizio, resident chef patron of the Ego restaurant in Matera. Born and raised in the splendid city of the Sassi.
Tell us about your training.
I have had professional training in the best hotels and restaurants in Italy: de Russie Rome, Alpenroyal Selva di Val Gardena (Michelin star), sous chef at Unico Milano (Michelin star), and others perhaps a little less important in terms of blazon but absolutely formative.
Your most beautiful memory and your most difficult moment.
The best memory, let's see, I would say the 10 years I spent in Selva di Val Gardena, at the court of Felix Lo Basso. The most difficult moments are related to the early years of Ego and its difficult market placement.
Who would you like to thank?
my mentor, him, Felice Lo Basso. I would like to send him a huge thank you for having made me grow professionally and having given me the foundations, the roots. Only through those, firmly rooted within me, can I now interpret my philosophy of cooking and make it grow, more and more, like the branches of a tree.
Returning to education, what do you think about the younger generation and the problems related to hotel schools?
The hotel school in my town, Matera, is a very serious institute. However, it has to be said that today it is no longer so common for young people armed with passion to embark on a difficult path. They have to know that there is a lot of responsibility, and hours of work. But perhaps it is more a question of lack of stimulus.
You, who, despite still being so young, are the creator of a great little dream come true, what message of encouragement would you send to the young people who, amidst difficulties and false myths, are about to enter this blessed cursed world?
My encouragement is more of an advice. Those who enter this field - and do it with true passion - must pursue it straight on, without becoming discouraged, even when they see everything black. Sooner or later, things done well bring the desired satisfaction.
What inspired you to become a cook?
It was the kitchen that sought me out. I was born to be a cook. I claim that in dowry I received passion, fun, the desire to reach the top and - above all - to create unique emotions for my customers.
How do you win customers?
Through my tale. A passionate tale.
I draw on tradition. I made it mine, as if under imprinting, when my grandparents were alive. At the same time I give customers a modern vision of that tradition by playing on contrasts: acidic, savoury, crispy, this is my mission when I have to win someone's palate. Amaze them!
Your raw material, therefore, is 'poor'.
Rich in tradition, nutrients and flavour. Despite being 'poor', however, I always try to create great dishes through techniques and contrasts.
The dish that now represents you.
My dish is - in homage to Matera bread - a dessert reminiscent of an old breakfast: cream of milk, caramelised bread and coffee ice cream.
How do you create your menus? Who do you draw inspiration from when you create a dish?
I am inspired by everything around me, by my mood, by everyday thoughts. In short, everything for me can be the fuse for inspiration and this is an important symptom for my vitality. It means that I am deeply alive.
The first memory related to food.
My 'ancient' memories are all linked to my grandfather. When he would dunk Matera bread everywhere, my curious eyes would dive into every dish with him.
The territory of Matera. What does it mean to you to belong to this land and how much do you 'use' it in your cooking?
My territory, it is not just a house, it is a living relationship. A loving relationship. I try every day to carry it on through multiple 0 km products, even contaminating them with others from abroad.
Matera, at this historic moment, has finally achieved the status it deserved.
And I 'thank' it every day by trying to do my job as well as possible and 'inserting' it into as many dishes as possible. In every dish, as I said, I try first of all to put the territory into it.
How and where do you see yourself in the future?
I'm not used to thinking about the future, I like to think step by step. I keep very much in the present, so that I don't have 'headaches'.
Not even an ambition?
If I had to say yes, I wouldn't mind a Michelin star. In fact, it would be a dream! A dream I have in my drawer. A drawer I try never to open.
What if you asked Nicola Popolizio what is the super power of a cook?
The super power of a cook? Two, indivisible: patience and perseverance.
